Nagarkot to Namo Buddha: happy 2072

Returning from Bardia National Park to crazy Kathmandu, we headed for the hills and Nagarkot, a mountaintop village at 7000'. Hoping for views of the Himalaya, Nepal instead displayed its usual haziness, which gave way overnight to rain.

No matter, the food was great at the farmhouse lodge we stayed in, and it was nice and quiet. In the afternoon, we took a three-hour walk to a nearby village where a new year's eve celebration was on. Once per year, the locals transfer images of four deities from one temple to another on big wooden carts. Since two images were of a children's god, the first two carts were carried by kids, who raucously celebrated each 50 feet of progress up an endless stairway.

We decided to stay in Nagarkot only one day though, and returned to the MiCasa Hotel in Kathmandu to end our journey. A hot bath, good restaurants, and a king size bed were too much to resist. The volume was turned up on New Year's Eve 2072 (Nepali calendar), but that's what earplugs are for.
















For our last full day in Nepal we hired a driver to take us to Namo Buddha, a temple and monastery where a previous incarnation of Buddha is said to have offered himself to a starving tiger and her cubs. It's an important site to Buddhists all over the world. On the way we passed a giant statue of the Hindu deity Shiva, the Destroyer. Not sure what to make of that on this winding mountain road.

From Namo Buddha, we walked about two hours through village streets and potato fields to Paunati, where our driver met us.

After dozens of Nepali meals, it'll be a while before I'll crave rice of any kind or can look another potato in the eye.

You'd think we'd be templed-out, but we stopped in Panauti to take in this little complex beside the river. Like other waterways in populated areas, you do not want to know about the river.

Before heading back to the hotel, we visited a weaving shop where Tibetan refugees make rugs. We thought about bringing one (rug) home, but didn't find anything that went with the house.

It's hard to believe we'll be flying home soon, but after all of these amazing adventures, it will be great to be in the comfort of home again. For a while.

Bardia National Park: rhinos and tigers and more

The flight from Paro in Bhutan back to Kathmandu (everything goes through Kathmandu) had been moved up, so we had an eight hour layover before flying on to Nepalgunj. With Judy short on sleep and I feeling unwell, we found a hotel near the airport and got a few hours of rest.

The two-hour drive from Nepalgunj airport to “Mr B’s” lodge just outside Bardia National Park seemed interminable and we arrived just after dark. But morning brought lovely subtropical surroundings.

Mrs B made me some healing tea (Mr B's father is an expert on medicinal herbs) and in a few hours I felt able enough for a short walk to the river and a visit to a small museum dedicated to the local Tharu people. Mr B showed us how the leaf of acacia catechu produces a bright red pigment when crushed that women use to mark their foreheads to signify betrothal.

Tuesday morning we met a park guard who led us in search of a rhino and her baby that were known to be in the area. We found them after about an hour, placidly munching vegetation. Mr B’s caution “If the rhino attacks, hide behind a big tree,” was not that comforting. Mr B had a close call with a rhino several years ago, and directed a quick retreat a couple of times. Scraping an ankle on a tree branch, I got my first and only running-from-a-rhino injury. Other than occasional ear-twitching, the rhinos didn't take much notice.

In the afternoon, Mrs B took us for a stroll through the neighboring Tharu village, where the wheat harvest was underway. Workers use hand scythes to cut the wheat and pile it to wait for threshing. Technology provided some help in the form of a new-looking tractor that ran a power threshing machine. Much of the agricultural work is still done by water buffalo and oxen though. The staple lentils, as well as garden vegetables and a variety of tropical fruits, grow here as well.

Mrs. B buys fresh vegetables from a vendor who stops by each morning.

Judy’s birthday occasioned an all-day jeep tour through the sweet-smelling jungle (technically the sal forest and riverine forest). Her birthday wish was to see a tiger, and conditions had been good for it.

Our first major wildlife encounter was with a herd of about 25 elephants, some of which stopped for a bath in a small lake. The herd included several babies and three large bulls. It normally lives in a valley near the mountains, so we were very fortunate. Elephants can be dangerous though, and our two guides were cautious in approaching them; the jeep was poised to make a quick exit if needed.

We stopped at three different bends in the river to look for animals. Spotted deer and two other species are numerous, and we came close to a dazzlingly blue white-throated kingfisher.

Since a tiger had been spotted there the previous afternoon, a crowd had gathered at the last viewpoint of the day, We got a nice view of a mother and (big) baby rhino crossing the river. No tiger yet, but our guides were determined and we stayed around until most of the other tourists were gone.

As the sun descended, one of the guides announced that monkeys across the river had alarmed for tiger. Ten minutes later, a hoarse whisper: “Tiger, tiger!” About 500 yards upstream, a magnificent tiger was bathing at the side of the river, only its head visible above the water. We watched it for nearly an hour before a too-excited tourist scared it away.

The following morning we departed on an all-day raft trip.

Near the put-in point, a woman was fetching water, and a small temple offered some puzzling iconography.

Not far down the river a gharial, a critically endangered species of crocodile, appeared on the surface. They grow up to 20 feet, and only 235 are said to exist in the world. Don't worry, they eat fish and aren't aggressive. We saw three or four of them while in Bardia.

Our guide pointed out many kinds of birds, such as the wooly-necked stork.

Later in the afternoon, the scorching sun (most thankfully) settled and we found ourselves in narrower channels with idyllic and spectacular scenery. This is called the "monkey bridge," maybe because that's all the weight it can hold.

Common langur monkey

Early Friday morning we took an hour’s elephant ride through the forest and glades. The animal unfortunately had a look of abject misery, and I couldn’t bring myself to photograph her. She seemed to perk up a bit by the time we finished though.

Since I’d been sick, Mr B was kind enough to schedule another jeep tour on our last day instead of an all-day walk. Early in the day, we came close enough to a tiger for Mr B and Judy to see it far ahead on the road, and for me to hear it rustling the bush. Got a photo of the print at least.

We relaxed along the river at several viewpoints, looking for wildlife and listening to the cries of wild peacock.

The excitement of the day was a very close encounter with an enormous rhino. It crossed the road right in front of the jeep and we passed behind nearly close enough to touch it, not that that would have been a good idea. After a bit it sauntered down to the river, where for about an hour it munched grass and took a cool-off.

We did a bit more exploring before heading back to the lodge, spotting a far-off hornbill and a couple of wild boar.

Farewell to the unsettled wildness of Bardia and our wonderful hosts and guides. We’ll always be thankful for these once-in-a-lifetime experiences.

Bhutan: happiness reigns

For a change, an uneventful flight brought us to Paro in Bhutan on the 30th. Though in the same part of the world, it immediately struck us as very different than Nepal, maybe because it's mostly Buddhist instead of Hindu. And oddly, the time zone is just 15 minutes off from Nepal's. We were met at the airport by our guide "Tim" and driver Phub, who would accompany us for the next week. All foreign visitors must be escorted by a guide, and it costs $300+ per person per day just to be in the country.

The first stop was the National Museum which showcases the cultural and natural history of Bhutan. No photos were allowed inside, but I did get a shot of the former museum, a lookout post built in the 17th century when Bhutan was founded as a nation. It was damaged in a 2011 earthquake and is being renovated.












A noticeable feature of Bhutanese culture is masks, many of which were on display at the museum.  Several festivals feature masked dancers. We had many conversations with Tim about Tibetan Buddhism and learned that all the scary faces represent deities that ward off obstacles and dampen human passions, thus aiding the journey to enlightenment.

Lunch was in a Paro restaurant, and we discovered that Bhutanese food is just as delicious or more so than Nepali. Happy to discover that asparagus is in season here.

Next stop was the Tamchog Zam, a bridge over the Paro Chuu, or river. Though built in 15th century style, it's fairly recent but the iron chains that support the span are from a bridge from that period. Thangtong Gyalpo, a kind of Renaissance-man Buddhist adept who must have been really good at metallurgy, came to Bhutan from Tibet looking for iron ore and built three of these.

Then on to Thimpu, the capital city. In Buddhist fashion, the locals perambulate this stupa clockwise, some chanting mantras. It seemed to be mostly older people, and as well as having spiritual significance, the stupa is a gathering place for friends and family to hang out.

The stupa was built in honor of the third king, who died unexpectedly in Nairobi in 1972. His 17-year-old son ascended to the throne, after which he introduced the concept of "gross national happiness." The government has nine metrics of GNH which all projects must meet. Bhutan presented GNH as an alternative to GNP at the United Nations, and it's been seriously considered by other countries; Brazil has adopted it.

Thimpu is home to a large hospital, and we were happy to learn that part of what foreigners pay to visit Bhutan goes to education and health services. We again saw many uniformed schoolchildren in the towns, but in contrast to Nepal and many other countries we've visited, their education is free.

Tuesday morning we hiked up to Cheri monastery in Jigme Dorji National Park. It was built in 1620 as a monastic school, and shortly thereafter two Jesuits from Portugal visited. Their journals are one of the few records of Bhutan's early history.

Back in Thimphu, the National Arts and Crafts school was fascinating; the students go through a 4-6 year program studying sculpture, embroidery, painting, weaving, or another discipline of their choice. I don't know how they concentrate under the eyes of an endless stream of tourists.

A wealthy Singaporean funded the recent construction of what is said to be the world's biggest sitting Buddha, made of bronze and overlooking the city. Its third eye is five feet in diameter and contains 1000 carats of diamond. The statue can be seen from miles away.

Bhutan's' national animal is the takin, an odd-looking goat/antelope. Near Thimphu is a sanctuary where about 30 of them live.

In the evening we visited the Taschichho Dzong, a fortress originally built in the 18th century that now serves as offices for the king, the chief abbot, and government administration. During the work week, visitors are only allowed on the grounds after the offices close. The king lives in a more humble dwelling below the fortress.

A three hour drive Wednesday morning brought us over a mountain pass and down into a subtropical valley to the town of Punakha. These prayer flags flew at the pass near a collection of war memorial stupas. In Bhutan, white prayer flags are erected to assist departed souls on their journey to heaven.Bhutan only reluctantly uses its army, but several years ago they had to oust a group of Indian rebels using their territory as a hideout.

The hotel room was the best yet, with polished wooden floors and big enough for a handball game.

Bhutan is almost all mountains and narrow valleys; only 3% is arable land. We took a walk through rice fields where our guide Tim talked about small-scale farming and his family's land. He and his sisters are trying to convince their mother that growing rice is not worth the hard labor, and that she should focus on vegetables and fruits.

Phallic images are ubiquitous in this area, but it's not what you might think. It has to do with the nearby temple of Chime Lakhang, dedicated to a famous 15th century Buddhist master and his "crazy wisdom." He taught in an unconventional and shocking manner, but made sense. Legend has it that he performed deeds such as subduing an evil goddess by striking her with his phallus (the "flaming thunderbolt of infinite wisdom"), and that afterward she became a protector of the Buddhist teachings. Couples come to the monastery if they are having problems with children or haven't been able to conceive. There's a scrapbook in the temple with photos and cards from people all over the world who visited here and had success. Who knows?

The Sangchen Dorji Luhuendrup nunnery across the valley could not have been more of a contrast to the male energy of the temple. Young nuns sang on the steps and studied their lessons on a grassy slope high above the valley.

Our second day in Punakha district started with a hike up to the Khamsum Yulley Namgyal temple, a beautiful example of Bhutanese art and craft. As usual, the interior could not be photographed, but the top level had a nice view of the terraced valley below.

The tour company threw in a raft trip, so we could hardly refuse. Though the day started drizzly, the weather held nicely. We floated down the Mo Chhu (mother) river and just past its confluence with the Po Chhu (father).

Afterward, a nice lunch with fiddlehead ferns that are gathered locally in the forest.

Finally, a visit to the Punakha Dzong, or fortress, built in the 1600s. As with the other fortresses, it held off invasions from Tibet and Mongolia. The chief abbot of Bhutan and his entourage spend the winters here; it's also been the site for royal weddings and coronations. Ngawang Namgyal, the unifier of Bhutan, spent his days here, and after he died in 1651, his death was concealed for 64 years. The monks thought that because Bhutan was so recently unified, announcing his passing would cause too much of a stir.

His mummified body is kept in this part of the fortress, and only the king, the chief abbot, and a few others have access. When a new king is named, he must go into the presence of the mummy to be blessed before his coronation.

Friday morning we returned to Paro, stopping for breakfast at the pass with a wonderful view of the Himalayas.

Once again we were given a beautiful room, this one with a view of the Paro valley.

Judy timed our trip so that we could experience the Paro festival. Thousands come to renew their spiritual connections at this annual event. Each town with a fortress has its own festival, and the main feature is a weeklong series of dances embodying the stories and principles of Tibetan Buddhism. I'll post some video when we get home.

Hundreds lined up to pass under a prayer shawl in front of the Lord of Death and get a blessing from the monks.

After a couple hours of watching the dances, we walked over to a special flower show sponsored by the Queen Mother. Bhutan is a constitutional monarchy, and the Bhutanese love and revere the royal family. 

Pictures of the King and Queen are everywhere.

On the final morning of the festival, a huge thangka is unfurled above the dance ground. Dating from the 17th century, it's brought out only once a year and the locals believe that being in its presence carries a special blessing. Since the unfurling occurs at around 4 a.m., we decided to come a bit later. Even more people gathered to see the thangka, with Guru Rinponche at its center.

A short drive north brought us to the trailhead for a hike to the Tiger's Nest, a famous clifftop monastery. With a 2000' elevation gain to 10,000', it was a workout but worth it.

On the way back to town, we visited Kyi Chu, the oldest (7th century) monastery in Bhutan. Serendipitously, the monks were conducting a ceremony invoking Guru Rinpoche, chanting and blowing trumpets and flutes. It was a haunting and magical interlude, made perfect at the end by the flowering tulip tree and wisteria outside.

Our stay in Bhutan ended with an herbal hot bath and dinner at a local farmhouse. Rocks are heated in a fire and dropped in the end section of a wooden tub. Tim picked some wild wormwood for our baths.

The woman who cooked for us said the farm had been in her family for 8-9 generations, that that four generations lived here now. 

The farmhouse has room for visiting travelers, a tradition in Bhutan, as well as its own shrine. 

Bhutan, with its unspoiled natural bounty, kind and generous people, and deep-rooted tradition, will long reside in our hearts. Long may it live as the kingdom of happiness.